binudsingh: What size sub-/midbasswoofers have you squeezed in your doors ...

1 Day Ago	? #1
? DIYMA Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Belgium Age: 27 Posts: 1,533 Thanks: 3 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	I think the "Fabrication" sub-forum is the best place for this, since this is all about modified door(panel)s that house bigger-than-stock woofers... So, what's the size of the woofers you've squeezed into your doors? And off-course: Pictures and a little explination are very welcome! Isabelle

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1 Day Ago	? #2
? DIYMA Loyalist Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 2,580 Thanks: 76 Thanked 176 Times in 150 Posts	I'm currently running the Dyn MW182. Dyn calls it a 10", it has the frame size and cone area of a 9". In the TL, it's extremely easy, not much harder than just making the hole bigger. A little more complicated than that but very easy. The beginning of the project, just a mock up with some wood spacer behind the mid. The 650 that came out and the 182 that went in: Right after I put the new carpet in, obviously right before I re-installed the glove box: They fit behind the stock door card, no exterior modifications, looks all stock. One of my goals is to keep it as stock as possible looking. Even with the midrange in the kicks, most people do not notice there's a system in the car. They had to be flush mounted to the sheet metal (with the supplied rubber gasket and a little sound deadener in between) in order to fit them behind the door card without modifications. Surprisingly I have less door vibrations at a given SPL with these than with the smaller 6.5s. One of life's big questions, should I check the 10" or the 8-9" poll box?
	'84 GN 10.60@ 127mph. Infinity 3.5 coaxials and a cheap Sony HU. '06 TL. Front stage- Dynaudio 102, 430, 182....Center- Dyn 650/102.... AE IB15s....JL HD600/4, HD900/5....MS8....SecondSkin Last edited by BuickGN; 23 Hours Ago at 05:30 PM..
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13 Hours Ago	? #7
? DIYMA Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Belgium Age: 27 Posts: 1,533 Thanks: 3 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts

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5 Hours Ago	? #13
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Memphis Posts: 992 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	I'll have to get and edit in pics but my old/previous work van, a 1994 Grand Voyager had only 3.5" in the dash and 6x9s in the rear liftgate. I cut out the door card and metal door skin to fit 6.5s with a jigsaw and other various metal eating tools and went through Silverflute wool cone 6.5s (sitting in garage for 5 years now lol), Goldwood 6.5s (cheap and quickly sold), Peerless CSC-X 6.5s and then ID OEM V1 6.5s w/the carbon fiber looking cone and phase plug... I bought a pair of black steel mesh CSS grills and mounted them to the door card to give excursion clearance since the doors were pancake flat. The panels were covered w/plexi and silicone and duct tape lol and the mids/Northcreek (Scanspeak derivative) large format home audio tweets were powered by a Next Vrz4.400 that I bought when first joining DIYMA... My new '08 Uplander has slim Massive Audio SX6 point source coaxials for now but after running the ID OEMs active for a bit (or my AA poly cones or old Peerless HDS mids) I'm going for 8s... Jeremy

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4 Hours Ago

? #14

Diyma Ninja

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For the most part they were. I had a 1/4" aluminum baffle glued to the door skin using body panel adhesive- made a baffle, cut the same shape out of the door skin, and glued the flat aluminum one in place.

These guys were pretty deep speakers, no hope for the window to go all the way down. And the car wasn't modern enough to have window memory.

I was wondering if yours hit at all.

Quote:

Were they flush mounted? When my window hits the last 1/2" of travel it makes a small clunk from tapping the magnet. It goes all the way down luckily. I need to space the window frame or reset the window memory to not go down the last 1/2" on auto down.